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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.